Our Last Day

Well, it is with a heavy heart that I write this last message from Cape Town.While we are profoundly sleep deprived, I believe I speak for everyone when I write that this trip has been an exhilerating, uplifting, and enormously moving experience. Everywhere we have gone, the response has been warm, inviting, loving.Last night was yet another remarkable experience.... this time at the large Apostolic Church in Khayelitsha. If you saw the movie "Tsotsi", you will recognize the name of this township. Like all other townships, this one is surrounded by dire shanty towns. I can't describe how strange it was to drive by these informal settlements at night... with NO lights on at all, except for the occasional fire outside. How can anyone live this way?

The church was full... this evening was advertised as a "sing-in".... five choirs plus US.... four of the five choirs were the church's groups. Now, here's the amazing thing: in addition to a large "Senior Choir", we heard the LARGE youth choir (age 16-26), the children's choir, and (elders, deacons and trustees who may be reading this: fasten your seatblets).... the LEADER'S Choir... Yes, in order to serve on a church board, you must be in the LEADER'S Choir, which rehearses TWICE a week. All these incredible groups plus Siyaya (from Gugeletu). The evening began with the male leaders of the church standing on the stage and singing a tribal "gathering" song... this went on for about 10 minutes, complete with elaborate choreography... and, as the song unfolded, dozens upon dozens of men joined them on stage. Thank heavens we recorded all this for later listening.There were many, many informal conversations between Senior Choir members and members of that congregation and the various choirs. You'll no doubt hear more from your friends on this trip... but, I'll relate one conversation I had with Xaloni (the "x" is a "click")... he said to me, "Jeffrey, you must understand how huge this is for us. NO white Africans would ever visit our townships. That you and your choir and friends have come into our township is an enormous gesture that we will never forget."The challenge facing us now is this: how do we bring this spirit, this enormous sense of grace, these gifts of forgiveness back home?? The late Reverend Richard Shaull often said that mission trips weren't about our going places and changing the lives of people we visited.... rather, when we travel to places like the townships of S. Africa, or Cuba, or Brazil, or Russia.... it is WE who are changed.Dick was a wise man.... how true that is. See all of you stateside.

Robben Island

For me, visiting Robben Island is walking on sacred ground. This is the place that shaped the destiny of South Africa. This is the place where political prisoners found the fortutude and grace to plan a South AFrica that would represent all of its people. What continues to be completely stunning to me and so many of my friends here is the commitment to reconciliation. While on Robben Island, we listened to Tulani, a former political prisoner and our guide, speak of his years of imprisonment- the mental and physical torture that he and his family experienced- and the conscious decision he made to align himself with Mandela and others. He said, "We South Africans are a forgiving people." Even with memories of repression still very fresh, revenge and reparation aren't even a consideration, it is healing and a better future that is sought.

Worship at JL Zwane

Today was a memorable combination of intense and personal connections with people in great need, along with joyous song and gratitude.
Spiwo's JL Zwane Memorial Presbyterian Church is an island of hope and relative prosperity in the midst of Guguletu's crushing poverty. With some assistance from our own church, Spiwo has made impressive in roads in the this desparate community. He and his congregation have taken a stand for human sexuality education and HIV prevention. Everyday they minister to those who have been touched by the disease. The Pastor commented that he had baptised over 1000 children; today many are orphans. Members of our choir visited several homes where children headed households, where over 10 people lived in one small shack, where a young mother lay near death. In the midst of all of this, Spiwo and JL Zwane are a beacon of encouragement and strength. Spiwo spoke with us about his challenges; his personal resolve was palpable.
When we sang, once again boundaries seemed to melt away. Our music was embraced with cheers, applause and dance (WE can't dance to our music, but THEY dance to our music!)
Spiwo called the day to a close by urging everyone, every singer, every listener, into a large circle. We held hands- brown and white hands clasped - and sang the JL Zwane song, "Be Bright In The Corner, Where You Are."

Gugeletu

Hi everyone,Well, it's late Sunday evening and we've had what was unquestionably the most moving day of our lives.... I'm wiped out... no more tears are possible.The day began at the J.L. Zwane Presbyterian Church. We sang in the morning worship service, which Spiwo (the Senior Pastor) said, would be a "short service"..... it was nearly 2 hours long! BUT, it flew by. Once again, I don't really think I can capture this experience in mere words. How can I describe the congregational singing? Led by the choir, usually a single voice, then radiating out to the full choir, then the full congregation.... hundreds, all ages, in full harmony.... many dancing in the aisles, many adding remarkably ornate improvisations in complex rhythms that classically trained musicians can only dream of making. I don't recall how many congregational songs there were... many, for sure... but, the emotional impact was immense.

It was a cold morning.... I remember thinking that my hands had never been that cold while conducting.... But the choir was wonderful. All sang from their heart. Could I ask for more? No, I don't think so. Spiwo's sermon was remarkable.... a kind of personal testimony, full of thanksgiving for the relationship J.L. Zwane has with Bryn Mawr Presbyterian Church. Any BMPC member who thinks that giving to mission is a mistake must re-think that position! We, who have so much, must give more.Another highlight of the service was the weekly testimony of someone who is fighting HIV. I can't say more..... other than the loving support that poured from the congregation before and after she spoke... in the form of song, of course.

After the service, several of us went to visit a young woman who was dying of AIDS. She lives in a small house with her sister (who was caring for the AIDS victim's baby) and another relative and her baby. It was clear that this poor woman didn't have long to live... we stood around her bed and sang "Amazing Grace." Her response was to close her eyes and cry while we sang... There was nothing we could have said, honestly.... we could only convey with our singing voices our love.With that experience we dashed back to the church to prepare for a 2 o'clock concert. This was in collaboration with Siyaya... a professional choir whose mission is to promote awareness of AIDS prevention. I was thrilled that they were able to learn the piece we commissioned: "Soweto: June 1976".... I rehearsed them for about 30 minutes, then off we flew for the concert. Siyaya opened.... oh gosh, they were beyond words.... potent, powerful, brilliant, emotion-filled, communicative.... just ravishing... then our little band of Presbyterians on state.... and, gosh, they were glorious too! Hugely receptive audience (again!).... but, when Siyaya joined the Senior Choir in singing "Soweto".... well, the house came a'tumbling down! After that, we presented Bongani (their director) with gifts (CD's of hundreds of thousands of songs for reprint + a financial contribution).... THEN, Handel's "Hallelujah Chorus" en masse.... and yes, the audience stood!Anyway, that was today... makes me darned happy to be a member of BMPC.... and that we as a church have a small part to play in transforming lives here in S. Africa.... By the way, Spiwo admonished us to stay involved in W. Philadelphia! YES!!!The best to you from S. Africa.